Use any brand amps, and speakers.more watts better sound. Iron core inductors just send distortion to the moon if you hit saturation.Not talking brands, talking basic sound reproduction facts. The one area I spend good money on is the air core inductors with low resistance. I use mostly electrolytics in my builds, because even replacing them every 10-20 years is cheaper than buying film/poly caps. The story is similar with regards to capacitor quality. While measurable, the difference is less than a tenth of a dB at 20000Hz. The basic sand cast ones do not sound any different. Using a measurement setup with a loopback interface as a timing reference is supposed to avoid this problem, but I don't have that myself.ĭon't waste your money on mills resistors. Essentially, minimum phase allows you to design the speaker using XYZ offsets, rather than designing from the point in space where the microphone was. My understanding is that it compensates for the travel time to the microphone. Someone with more experience might be able to explain it better. I suspect this will sound considerably cleaner where it counts. Protractor is on order, so we'll find out soon enough. The wooferis 1-2% distortion in that range where the horn is 20%, so I think this is a good trade and I'll just live with some reflectivity issues. I think I'd rather take some beaming than 20% distortion from the tweeter. Overall, I decided to go wit ha 1.9khz crossover to get the horn firmly out of it's high distortion zone. It's easy to run the scroll wheel on the mouse until you have $50+ caps lol. I may play with it later and see if I can get the costs down. I think the crossover you posted would cost significantly more. I made sure to use poly caps, air cores with low resistance on the woofer, and mills resistors on the tweeter. I was able to get that with about $150 in parts for both speakers. I suspect the 350hz null is some standing wave, but the rock wool had little effect on it. I don't a miter / table saw and I've not been out to get any wood, so that's up next, eventually.
Klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review software#
Why would tick 'minimum phase' when I was able to get correct agreement in software to measured results? Truth be told, I don't much understand that function in the software.įor sure. Those impedance wiggles at 160 and 400Hz indicate some resonances might be leftover. Side note, I would try adding some extra bracing inside the cabinet, and kilmat sound deadening to the basket of the woofer and passive radiator. Not that it makes a huge difference, just 1-2dB in the crossover region. I did select minimum phase for the measurements, which seems to have helped, now the phase data looks more like what I expect when measuring speakers with a fixed mic on a rotating platform. Impedance is also smoothed a bit, but in practice that doesn't really matter.
![klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review](https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/products/2020/6/700/g700FORT3WO-F.jpg)
The scaling isn't quite the same, but the primary difference is rolling off the woofer more aggressively, to manage the cone breakup, and therefore distortion. Learned it the hard way with my first build when I tried to be cheap and ended up costing myself $30 extra just fixing it. Good crossovers cost a decent amount, just an unfortunate reality. If you get the alignment correct, it should look like this, which matches perfect with my measurements Woofer is 203mm below the horn (center to center) I need to determine the significance of it since 2khz is where the horn clears up in distortion, so it's a good crossing point. I have a design for a cross at 2khz that seems Okay, but I know that beaming starts at about 1800hz on a 10". I can't find my protractor, so I've not done off axis measurements yet.
![klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review](https://photographs.leonardauction.com/max/191683.jpg)
I'm probably looking at $50+ for each speaker for a new crossover, maybe more using reasonably priced parts. I'd like to keep the crossover values as low as I can to save money. No posts on products or items that are not diy relatedīuying or Selling of equipment goes to /r/avexchangeįull Rule list here Check out our sister subs /r/diytubes for vacuum tubes and /r/headphonemods for headphone DIY! r/synthDIY for all your DIY robot tone needs r/vinylpro and /r/vinyl for turntables and shellac spinnery r/budgetaudiophile Affordable stuff you can't build r/audiophilemusic Music for your system and your ears r/diysound is the right place for diy speakers etc r/diyaudioswap Have parts, skills, or projects that you'd like to sell or trade? r/diytubes Discussion of vacuum tubes and their uses r/audioengineering Recording, editing, and producing
![klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review klipsch kg 4.2 speakers review](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dHYzzZkE21Y/maxresdefault.jpg)
r/headphones All topics related to headphones r/audiophile Quality audio reproduction of all forms. See the list of past AMAs here! Related subreddits Interesting Links Our Wiki Great Resources Why your first speaker should be a proven design A place to discuss DIY audio, share plans and schematics, and link to interesting projects.